Kodi zovala zachikhalidwe (kapena vegan) zimatanthauza chiyani?
Kuti zovala ziziganiziridwa kuti ndizoyenera, siziyenera kukhala ndi chilichonse chochokera ku nyama. Maziko a zovala za vegan ndi zinthu zopangidwa kuchokera ku mbewu ndi zida zopangira zopezedwa ndi mankhwala. Amene amasamalanso za chilengedwe ayenera kusankha njira zina zochokera ku zomera.
Pakali pano palibe mayina apadera osonyeza ngati chovala china chake ndi choyenera. Kufufuza mosamalitsa kokha za kapangidwe kamene kamasonyezedwa pa lebulo lazinthu kungathandize apa. Ngati pambuyo pake pali kukayikira, funsani wogulitsa, kapena bwino, mwachindunji kwa wopanga mankhwala omwe mukufuna.
Nsapato zimalembedwa ndi pictograms zapadera zomwe zimasonyeza zomwe zimapangidwira. Zitha kukhala zikopa, zikopa, nsalu kapena zipangizo zina. Matchulidwewo amafanana ndi zinthu, zomwe zimaposa 80% ya kuchuluka kwazinthu zonse. Zigawo zina sizimanenedwa paliponse. Chifukwa chake, ndizosatheka kudziwa nthawi yomweyo ngati zomwe zikuphatikizidwazo zilibe zida zanyama, ndikungoyang'ana chizindikiro chochokera kwa wopanga. Apa, choyamba, ndi bwino kutchula guluu. Nthawi zambiri zimakhala ndi zinyama ndipo zimagwiritsidwa ntchito mochuluka popanga nsapato. Nsapato za vegan sizikutanthauza leatherette: pali zosankha kuyambira thonje ndi ubweya wabodza mpaka kokwa.
Zida zochokera ku zinyama muzovala
Sizinthu zopangidwa ndi nyama (monga momwe anthu ambiri amaganizira). 40% yakupha padziko lonse lapansi ndi yachikopa chokha.
Nyama zokasaka ubweya zimasungidwa pamalo owopsa ndipo nthawi zambiri zimakhala ndi moyo zikamasendidwa.
Nyama zimavutika ndikuvulazidwa osati zikameta kokha. Pofuna kupewa matenda kuchokera ku blowflies, zomwe zimatchedwa buluu zimachitika. Izi zikutanthauza kuti zigawo za khungu zimadulidwa kumbuyo kwa thupi (popanda opaleshoni).
Amapangidwa kuchokera ku undercoat ya mbuzi za cashmere. Cashmere ndi chinthu chamtengo wapatali chokhala ndi zofunikira zapamwamba. Nyama zomwe ubweya wake sukwaniritsa zofunikirazi nthawi zambiri zimaphedwa. Tsoka limeneli linagwera 50-80% ya mbuzi zongobadwa kumene za cashmere.
Angora ndi kutsika kwa akalulu a angora. 90% yazinthuzo zimachokera ku China, komwe kulibe malamulo okhudza ufulu wa zinyama. Njira yopezera fluff ikuchitika ndi mpeni wakuthwa, womwe umabweretsa kuvulala kwa akalulu poyesa kuthawa. Kumapeto kwa ndondomekoyi, nyamazo zimakhala ndi mantha, ndipo patatha miyezi itatu zonse zimayambanso.
Nthenga za abakha ndi atsekwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri.
Mbozi ya silika imapanga chikwa cha ulusi wa silika. Kuti ulusi umenewu ukhale woyenera kugwiritsidwa ntchito m’mafakitale, mbozi zamoyo zimaziwiritsa m’madzi otentha. Kuseri kwa bulawuti imodzi ya silika kuli moyo wa tizilombo 2500.
Magwero a zinthu zimenezi ndi ziboda ndi nyanga za nyama, milomo ya mbalame.
Amayi-wa-ngale amachokera ku zipolopolo za mollusk. Samalani mabatani pa zovala - nthawi zambiri amapangidwa ndi nyanga kapena amayi a ngale.
Zida zina
Utoto wa nsalu ukhoza kukhala ndi cochineal carmine, makala anyama, kapena zomangira nyama.
Kuphatikiza apo, zomatira zambiri za nsapato ndi zikwama zimakhala ndi zinthu zanyama. Mwachitsanzo, guluu wonyezimira amapangidwa kuchokera ku mafupa kapena khungu la nyama. Masiku ano, opanga akugwiritsa ntchito guluu wopangira, chifukwa sasungunuka m'madzi.
Zida zomwe zafotokozedwa pamwambapa sizikufunika kuti zilembedwe pazogulitsa. Yankho labwino kwambiri (koma osati nthawi zonse) ndikufunsa funso lokhudza kapangidwe kake kwa wopanga.
Njira Zina Zoyenera
Ambiri chomera CHIKWANGWANI. Ulusi wa thonjewo amaudula n’kuupanga kukhala ulusi womwe amaupanga n’kupanga nsalu. Bio thonje (organic) wakula popanda kugwiritsa ntchito feteleza mankhwala ndi mankhwala.
Mphukira za cannabis zimatha kudziteteza, kotero palibe ziphe zaulimi zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito polima. Nsalu ya hemp imachotsa litsiro, imakhala yolimba kuposa thonje, ndipo imasunga kutentha bwino. Ndi yoyenera kwa anthu omwe ali ndi vuto la ziwengo ndipo imatha kuwonongeka kwathunthu.
Ulusi wa fulakesi umafunika feteleza wochepa kwambiri. Nsalu ya Linen ndi yoziziritsa kukhudza komanso yolimba kwambiri. Zilibe lint ndipo sizimamwa fungo mwachangu ngati zina zonse. Ndi biodegradable ndi recyclable.
Chotsatira cha kupanga zinthu za soya. Zowoneka zosasiyanitsidwa ndi silika wachilengedwe, pomwe zimakhala zotentha komanso zokondweretsa thupi ngati cashmere. Silika wa soya ndi wokhazikika pakugwiritsa ntchito. Zinthu zosawonongeka.
Amachokera ku cellulose yachilengedwe (nsungwi, bulugamu kapena nkhuni za beech). Viscose ndizosangalatsa kuvala. Zinthu zosawonongeka.
Ma cellulose fiber. Kuti mupeze lyocell, njira zina zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kusiyana ndi kupanga viscose - zachilengedwe. Nthawi zambiri mumatha kupeza lyocell pansi pa mtundu wa TENCEL. Zinthu zosawonongeka, zogwiritsidwanso ntchito.
Amakhala ndi ulusi wa polyacrylonitrile, katundu wake amafanana ndi ubweya: amasunga kutentha bwino, amasangalatsa thupi, samakwinya. Ndi bwino kutsuka zinthu zopangidwa ndi acrylic pa kutentha kosapitirira 40C. Nthawi zambiri, chisakanizo cha thonje ndi acrylic chimapezeka muzovala.
Popanga zovala, PET (polyethylene terephthalate) imagwiritsidwa ntchito makamaka. Ulusi wake ndi wokhazikika kwambiri ndipo sichimamwa chinyezi, chomwe chimakhala chofunikira kwambiri pazovala zamasewera.
Ndi chisakanizo cha zipangizo zingapo za nsalu, zokutidwa ndi PVC ndi polyurethane. Kugwiritsa ntchito zikopa zopangira zimapangitsa kuti opanga azitsimikizira kuti zinthu zili bwino. Ndi zotsika mtengo kuposa zenizeni ndipo nthawi yomweyo zimakhala zosadziwika bwino.
Zotsatira za njira yopangira ntchito yovuta kwambiri: ulusi wa polyacrylic umangiriridwa pamunsi womwe umakhala ndi thonje ndi poliyesitala. Posintha mtundu ndi kutalika kwa tsitsi lililonse, ubweya wochita kupanga umapezeka, wowoneka ngati wofanana ndi wachilengedwe.
Acrylic ndi poliyesitala amaonedwa kuti ndi zinthu zamakhalidwe abwino kwambiri: pakusamba kulikonse, tinthu tating'onoting'ono tating'onoting'ono timakhala m'madzi onyansa, kenako m'nyanja, komwe kumakhala kowopsa kwa okhalamo komanso chilengedwe. Choncho, ndi bwino kupereka mmalo mwa njira zachilengedwe.