Mmodzi mwa tiyi wakale waku China, dzinalo limachokera ku mzinda wa Pu'er, komwe mpaka zaka za zana la XNUMX linkagwiritsidwa ntchito nthawi ndi nthawi m'malo mwa ndalama. Kwa zaka zambiri m'misika ya Tibet ndi Mongolia, pu-erh idasinthidwa kukhala akavalo, ndipo pokhapo ndikuyamba kutchuka kwenikweni ku Russia. Tiyi yamatsenga, mankhwala achilengedwe, kukongola ndi tiyi wachinyamata, chakumwa cha mfumu, chuma cha dziko la China - zonsezi ndi za iye.
Panthawi ya Mzera wa Tang (618-907), pu-erh adabweretsedwa ku Tibet kuchokera kumadera osiyanasiyana. Kuti aziyenda mosavuta, adapanikizidwa mu zikondamoyo ndi njerwa, zonyamulidwa pamakalavani. Paulendo wautaliwo, nyengo ndi nyengo zinasintha kuchoka ku youma kupita ku chinyezi kwambiri; motero, pamene apaulendo anafika ku Tibet, pu-erh kuchokera coarse wobiriwira tiyi anasanduka tiyi ofewa wakuda. Choncho mwachibadwa anagonja mosavuta ndi kupesa chifukwa chakuti anayamba kunyowa kenako n’kuuma. Anthu adawona kusinthaku ndipo Pu-erh adadziwika kwambiri m'magulu apamwamba a anthu.
Puer City ili pakatikati pa chigawo cha Yunnan. Tiyi sinapangidwe mumzinda womwewo, munali msika waukulu kwambiri, kumene tiyi anabweretsedwa kuchokera kumapiri apafupi ndi zigawo zamalonda. Zinali kuchokera mumzinda uno kuti apaulendo ananyamuka - ndipo tiyi onse ochokera kumalo awa anayamba kutchedwa "puer".
Kodi muli chiyani?
Kukoma kwa pu-erh ndikokhazikika: mumaikonda kapena kusiya mwaudani. Makamaka, pu-erh yakale ili ndi kukoma kwapadera, komwe kumagwirizanitsidwa makamaka ndi kusungirako (youma kapena yonyowa). Ngati sheng pu-erh wamng'onoyo ndi wabwino, ndiye kuti amakoma. Kawirikawiri, kukoma kwa pu-erh ndi kosiyana kwambiri ndipo aliyense akhoza kupeza "zolemba" zomwe amakonda.
Chiyambi cha ubale wa munthu ndi tiyi chimapita m'mbiri kwa zaka zikwi zambiri chisanatchulidwe m'mabuku. Poyamba, tiyi ankamwa tiyi ndi asing’anga ochokera m’mafuko am’deralo, asing’anga ndi asing’anga omwe ankakhala m’nkhalangomo ndipo ankawagwiritsa ntchito kuti asinthe mzimu, thupi ndi maganizo awo, kuti azichiritsa ena ndi kupereka nzeru kwa ophunzira. Pambuyo pake, asing'anga a Chitao adakondanso tiyi. Mpaka pano, mafuko ena a ku Yunnai amalambira mitengo yakale ya pu-erh. Iwo amakhulupirira kuti zamoyo zonse ndiponso anthu enieni anachokera kwa iwo.
Zinsinsi zopanga
China nthawi zonse imawonedwa ngati dziko lomwe limaulula zinsinsi zake monyinyirika. Zinsinsi za kupanga zasungidwa mosamala kuyambira kalekale. Inde, m'dziko lamakono la zamakono zamakono, palibe zinsinsi zomwe zatsala. Komabe, kuti mumalize mwaluso magawo onse opangira pu-erh, muyenera kudziwa zambiri.
Ankakhulupirira kuti pu-erh yabwino kwambiri imapangidwa m'chigawo cha Xi Shuan Ban Na. Pali mapiri 6 otchuka a tiyi - pu-erh yomwe inasonkhanitsidwa m'malo awa inkaonedwa kuti ndiyo yabwino kwambiri. Mbiri ya mapiri imachokera kwa mkulu wotchuka Zhu Ge Liang (181-234). Anasiya zinthu zosiyanasiyana paphiri lililonse lomwe linali dzina la mapiri awa: Yu Le gong wamkuwa, cauldron yamkuwa ya Man Zhi, chitsulo cha Man Zhuang, Ge Dan chishalo cha akavalo, chomenya matabwa cha Yi Bang, thumba lambewu la Man Sa. Komanso mu ufumu wa Qing (1644-1911) kunali kotchuka kusonkhanitsa pu-erh m'mapiri a Yi Wu - ankaonedwa kuti ndi abwino kwambiri ndipo amaperekedwa kwa mfumu.
M'masiku akale, njira zamalonda zazitali komanso zovuta zodutsa m'nkhalango zamvula zimalimbikitsa kupesa kwachilengedwe (kuwotchera), kotero tiyi adapita panjira, akadali yaiwisi, ndi "kucha" popita. Kodi tiyi amapangidwa bwanji masiku ano? Zinsinsi zonse zidzafotokozedwa ndi Denis Mikhailov, wophunzira wa sukulu ya Cha Dao "Hut Hermit wa Tea". Kwa zaka zoposa 8 wakhala akuphunzira luso la tiyi, ndiye woyambitsa "Tea Hut" ya Moscow komanso mlengi wa sitolo ya tiyi "Puerchik".
Denis: “Kasupe amaonedwa kuti ndi nyengo yabwino kwambiri yotolera ma pu-erh, mwina m’dzinja. Choyamba, pu-erh ndi Mao Cha (tiyi wokoma) - awa ndi masamba okonzedwa. Kenako amapanikizidwa mu "zikondamoyo" kapena kusiyidwa.
Tsatanetsatane wa kupanga ndi motere. Masamba othyoledwa kumene amabweretsedwa m’nyumba n’kuwayala pamphasa zansungwi kuti ziume. Cholinga cha kufota ndikuchepetsa pang'ono chinyezi cha masamba kuti azitha kusinthasintha komanso kuti asawonongeke ndi kukonzanso. Kufota kuyenera kuchitidwa mosamala kwambiri kuti masamba asakhale oxidize kuposa momwe amafunikira. Masamba a tiyi amasiyidwa kuti aume kwa kanthawi kunja, kenaka amawaika pamalo olowera mpweya wabwino.
Izi zimatsatiridwa ndi kuwotcha mu khola la Sha Qing kumene kukoma kwa masamba kumachotsedwa (mitundu ina ya zomera imakhala yowawa kwambiri kuti idye nthawi yomweyo). Ku Yunnan, ntchitoyi ikuchitikabe ndi manja, m'mawoko akuluakulu (zophika zachikhalidwe zaku China) komanso pamoto wa nkhuni. Pambuyo pakuwotcha, masambawo amakulungidwa - komanso ndi dzanja, pogwiritsa ntchito njira yapadera (njira yofanana ndi kukanda mtanda). Izi zimaphwanya mapangidwe a ma cell a masamba, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti makutidwe ndi okosijeni azichulukana komanso kupesa. Ndiye tiyi yamtsogolo imawuma padzuwa. Izi ziyenera kuchitika mosamala kwambiri kuti zisawononge masamba. Nthawi zambiri, masamba amawuma m'mawa kapena madzulo, dzuwa likapanda mphamvu. Atatha kuyanika, Mao Cha ali okonzeka. Kenako amayamba kuzigawa m'mitundu malinga ndi mtundu wa pepalalo.
Zinthu ziwiri zosiyana kwambiri zopangira pu-erh ndikuwotcha mumphika wa Sha Qing ndikuumitsa padzuwa. Kuwotcha pu-erh sikuyenera kuletsa makutidwe ndi okosijeni, koma kuyanika padzuwa kumapereka chakumwa cham'tsogolo kukoma, mawonekedwe ndi fungo linalake. Kukonzekera kotereku kumathandiza mphamvu ya mapiri ndi nkhalango, kumene tiyi inakula, kukhalabe mmenemo kwa nthawi yaitali.
Pu-erh yakale komanso yatsopano
Ambiri amawumitsidwa chifukwa cha mawu oti "wild puer". Zowonadi, mitengo ya tiyi yakuthengo ndi zomera zakale zomwe zasungidwa zaka zana kapena kupitilira apo. Zitha kugawidwa poyamba zakutchire - izi ndi zomwe zimakula mwachibadwa m'chilengedwe - ndikubzalidwa ndi anthu, zomwe kwa zaka mazana ambiri zakhala zikuyendayenda ndikuphatikizana ndi zomera zina.
M'dziko lamakono, Pu-erh adadziwika ku Hong Kong, komwe adaperekedwa kuchokera kumapeto kwa Mzera wa Qing. Ku China komweko panthawiyo sikunali kotchuka ndipo kunkawonedwa ngati tiyi wotchipa. Chifukwa cha chinyezi chambiri ku Hong Kong, pu-erh anakhwima mwachangu ndikupeza odziwa zambiri. Monga vinyo, tiyiyi imasintha pakapita nthawi, kukhala bwino, ndichifukwa chake adakopa chidwi cha osonkhanitsa ambiri panthawiyo. Mwachilengedwe, pambuyo pake, masheya a pu-erh akale adayamba kuchepa. Kenako chitukuko cha Shu pu-erh chinayamba (zambiri pa izo pansipa). Pambuyo pake, m’zaka za m’ma 1990, pu-erh yakale inayamba kutchuka ku Taiwan. Anthu aku Taiwan anali oyamba kupita ku Yunnan kuti akapange pu-erh yawo. Iwo ali otanganidwa kwambiri mu phunziro lake ndipo anayamba kubwezeretsa maphikidwe akale. Mwachitsanzo, kuyambira m'ma 1950 mpaka 1990, pu-erh ankapangidwa makamaka kuchokera ku tchire laling'ono - monga tiyi wotchipa komanso wovuta, monga tafotokozera pamwambapa. Umu ndi momwe pu-erh weniweni kuchokera kumitengo yakale, yopangidwa mwa njira yabwino kwambiri ndi anthu a tiyi, adapezanso kutchuka. Kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma 2000 pamene pu-erh inayamba kukweranso ku China.
Denis: “Pali mitundu iŵiri ikuluikulu ya pu-erh: sheng (yobiriwira) ndi shu (yakuda). Sheng pu-erh ndi masamba okonzedwa mpaka ku mao cha (tiyi wowawa). Pambuyo pake, monga tanenera kale, tiyi amapanikizidwa mu "zikondamoyo" kapena kusiyidwa. Kenako, ikamakalamba mwachilengedwe, imasandulika kukhala sheng pu-erh wakale wodabwitsa. Shu pu-erh ndi sheng pu-erh yomwe yafufutitsidwa mochita kupanga ndi Wo Dui. Kukonzekera kwake, Mao Cha akuwunjikidwa, kuthiridwa ndi madzi apadera kuchokera ku kasupe ndikuphimba ndi nsalu. Izi zimatha pafupifupi mwezi umodzi, pomwe black pu-erh imapezeka kuchokera ku green pu-erh. Adapangidwa m'ma 1970s, njirayi imayenera kutengeranso mikhalidwe ya sheng pu-erh yakale, yomwe imatenga zaka zambiri kuti ikalamba mwachilengedwe. Inde, sikunali kotheka kubereka mwezi umodzi zomwe chilengedwe chimachita zaka 70-100. Koma umu ndi momwe mtundu watsopano wa pu-erh unawonekera.
Kwa sheng pu-erh (mosiyana ndi shu), zopangira ndizofunikira. Sheng pu-erh yabwino imapangidwa kuchokera kumitengo yabwino kwambiri kuchokera kumitengo yakale yomwe imakololedwa masika ndi autumn. Ndipo mu shu pu-erh, ukadaulo wa fermentation ndi wofunikira kwambiri. Nthawi zambiri, shu pu-erh amapangidwa kuchokera ku tchire lokolola m'chilimwe. Komabe, shu yabwino kwambiri imapangidwa kuchokera kukolola kwa masika.
Pali mapiri ambiri komwe pu-erh amamera, ndipo, molingana ndi zokonda ndi zonunkhira zosiyanasiyana. Koma pali kusiyana kwakukulu: achinyamata a sheng pu-erh nthawi zambiri amakhala ndi kulowetsedwa kobiriwira, kukoma kwamaluwa ndi fungo lamaluwa. Kulowetsedwa kwa shu pu-erh ndi mtundu wakuda, ndipo kukoma kwake ndi fungo lake ndi lokoma, lonyansidwa ndi nthaka. Shu pu-erh ndi yabwino kutenthetsa, pomwe sheng yaying'ono ndi yabwino kuziziritsa.
Palinso white pu-erh - iyi ndi sheng pu-erh, yopangidwa kwathunthu kuchokera ku impso. Ndipo pu-erh wofiirira ndi sheng pu-erh wa mitengo yakuthengo yokhala ndi masamba ofiirira.”
Kodi kusankha ndi mowa?
Denis: “Ndikulangiza poyamba kusankha organic pu-erh. Tiyiyi amabzalidwa popanda kugwiritsa ntchito feteleza, mankhwala ophera tizilombo komanso mankhwala ophera udzu. Pu-erh yotereyi imakhala ndi Qi yamphamvu (mphamvu ya tiyi), yomwe imakhala ndi phindu pa thupi. Tiyi wolimidwa ndi "chemistry" ali ndi qi pang'ono ndipo alibe thanzi. Ngati ndinu wosadya zamasamba ndipo mumakhala ndi moyo wathanzi, kudzakhala kosavuta kuti mumve Qi ya tiyi wa organic ndikusangalala nayo mokwanira.
Malangizo kwa okonda pu-erh oyambira: shu pu-erh iyenera kugulidwa kuchokera kwa opanga akuluakulu - angakwanitse kubereka, zomwe ndizofunikira kwambiri popanga tiyi. Sheng pu-erh ndikwabwino kugula m'malo ogulitsira tiyi - awa ndi malo ogulitsa tiyi omwe amadzipangira okha tiyi kapena amawongolera momwe amapangira tiyi.
Organic pu-erh yomwe imakololedwa kuchokera kumitengo yakale yokolola masika ndi yabwino, koma shu pu-erh imathanso kupangidwa kuchokera ku tchire.
Pu-erh yonse imaphikidwa ndi madzi otentha (pafupifupi madigiri 98). Ndi sheng pu-erh, muyenera kusamala ndikuwerengera kuchuluka kwake, apo ayi zakumwa zitha kukhala zowawa. Sheng pu-erh amamwa bwino kuchokera m'mbale. Lose sheng pu-erh akhoza kuikidwa mu mbale (mbale yaikulu) ndikungotsanulira madzi otentha - iyi ndiyo njira yosavuta kumwa tiyi. Njira iyi imatigwirizanitsa ndi chilengedwe: mbale yokha, masamba ndi madzi. Ngati tiyi wapanikizidwa, ndiye kuti ndi bwino kugwiritsa ntchito teapot, ndikutsanulira mu mbale. Ngati tikufuna kumva zowoneka bwino komanso zowoneka bwino za kukoma kwa pu-erh, ndiye kuti ziyenera kupangidwa pogwiritsa ntchito njira ya Gongfu. Gongfu ndi tiyi yadongo ya Yixing komanso makapu ang'onoang'ono adothi. Kawirikawiri tiyi wabwino kwambiri amapangidwa motere - mwachitsanzo, 15-30 wazaka za sheng pa.
Shu pu-erh ndi wodzichepetsa kwambiri pofulira moŵa (njira iliyonse yopangira moŵa idzachita), ndi yabwino ngakhale italowetsedwa mwamphamvu. Nthawi zina, mochedwa mochedwa, ndi bwino kuwonjezera chipale chofewa cha chrysanthemum kuti shu pu-erh ndikupitiriza kumwa. Ndipo masamba ochokera kumitengo yakuthengo ya Ya Bao amayenda bwino mu sheng. Kuphatikiza apo, tiyiwa ndiabwino kwambiri kupangira moŵa.”
Mfundo Zokondweretsa
Denis: "Pali mfundo zisanu zomwe zimapangitsa tiyi ya pu-erh kukhala yapadera:
1 malo. Chigawo cha Yunnan ndi nkhalango yamatsenga yomwe imagwedezeka ndi moyo. Ndi kwawo kwa 25% ya mitundu yonse ya nyama ndi zomera zomwe zimakhala ku China. Pafupifupi zitsamba zonse zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito mumankhwala achi China zimachokera ku Yunnan ndipo, ndithudi, tiyi ndi mankhwala abwino kwambiri pakati pawo. Zomera zonse pano zimakula, zazikulu kuposa m'malo ena.
2) Mitengo yakale. Mtengo wakale kwambiri wa pu-erh uli ndi zaka 3500. Tiyi onse anachokera ku zomera zotere. Mitengo yakale yotereyi imakhala ndi thunthu lalitali lomwe imatengera mphamvu za dzuwa ndi mwezi. Mizu yawo ikuluikulu, yomwe imafika pansi pa nthaka, imatha kufika ku mchere ndi zinthu zomwe palibe chomera china chilichonse chingafikire. Michere ndi zinthu zonsezi ndizofunikira kwa munthu ndipo zitha kupezeka kudzera mu tiyi.
3) Madzi owala bwino otsika kuchokera pamwamba pa mapiri a Himalaya, amakhala ndi mchere panjira yotsikira kumapiri a Tibet ndikudyetsanso mitengo yonse ya tiyi.
4) Tiyi wamoyo. Pu-erh ali ndi tiyi yayikulu kwambiri. Iyi ndi tiyi yomwe imabzalidwa kuchokera ku mbewu zamitundumitundu, popanda kugwiritsa ntchito ulimi wothirira ndi "chemistry". Ali ndi malo okwanira kuti akule (nthawi zina tchire zimabzalidwa mobwerera kumbuyo ndipo alibe malo oti akule). Anthu amene amapanga tiyi amakonda chilengedwe ndipo amagwirizana nazo.
5) Mabakiteriya ndi tizilombo toyambitsa matenda timene timakhala pamitengo ya pu-erh (ndiyeno mu "pancake" yokha) ndi yapadera kwambiri. Ndi chithandizo chawo kuti tiyi imasinthidwa pakapita nthawi kukhala yapadera. Tsopano pali ma sheng pu-erh omwe ali ndi zaka zoposa zana. Ma tea awa ndi odabwitsa. Iyi ndi mphatso yayikulu ya chilengedwe kwa anthu! Maonekedwe a tiyi wotere ndi ovuta kumvetsetsa, mpaka pano akadali chinsinsi chomwe tingachitenge mopepuka. "