Momwe komanso chifukwa chiyani misika yamsika ikusinthira kuzinthu zokhazikika

Sekondi iliyonse galimoto yodzaza ndi zovala imapita kumalo otayirako. Ogula omwe amazindikira izi safuna kugula zinthu zomwe sizikugwirizana ndi chilengedwe. Populumutsa dziko lapansi ndi bizinesi yawoyawo, opanga zovala adayamba kusoka zinthu kuchokera ku nthochi ndi ndere

Pafakitale ya kukula kwa bwalo la ndege, ocheka laser amadula mapepala a thonje aatali, ndikudula manja a jekete za Zara. Mpaka chaka chathachi, nyenyeswa zomwe zinkagwera m’madengu azitsulo zinkagwiritsidwa ntchito monga zodzaziramo mipando yamatabwa kapena kutumizidwa kumalo otayirako zinyalala mumzinda wa Arteijo kumpoto kwa Spain. Tsopano amapangidwa ndi mankhwala kukhala cellulose, osakanikirana ndi ulusi wamatabwa, ndikupanga chinthu chotchedwa refibra, chomwe chimagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga zovala zopitilira khumi ndi ziwiri: T-shirts, mathalauza, nsonga.

Ichi ndi gawo la Inditex, kampani yomwe ili ndi Zara ndi mitundu ina isanu ndi iwiri. Zonsezi zikuyimira gawo lamakampani opanga mafashoni omwe amadziwika ndi zovala zotsika mtengo zomwe zimasefukira zovala za ogula koyambirira kwa nyengo iliyonse ndipo pakapita miyezi ingapo amapita ku zinyalala kapena mashelufu akutali kwambiri a zovala.

• Kuphatikiza pa iwo, Gap akulonjeza kugwiritsa ntchito antchito okhawo ochokera m'mafamu opangidwa ndi organic kapena mafakitale omwe sawononga chilengedwe pofika 2021;
• Kampani ya ku Japan Fast Retailing, yomwe ili ndi Uniqlo, ikuyesera laser processing kuchepetsa kugwiritsa ntchito madzi ndi mankhwala mu jeans ovutika;
• Chimphona cha ku Sweden Hennes & Mauritz chikuyika ndalama m'mabizinesi oyambira omwe amakhazikika pakupanga ukadaulo wobwezeretsa zinyalala komanso kupanga zinthu kuchokera kuzinthu zomwe si zachikhalidwe, monga bowa mycelium.

Makampani a $ 3 trilioni amagwiritsa ntchito thonje, madzi ndi magetsi osayerekezeka kuti apange zidutswa za 100 biliyoni za zovala ndi zipangizo chaka chilichonse, 60% ya zomwe, malinga ndi McKinsey, zimatayidwa mkati mwa chaka. Pansi pa 1% ya zinthu zomwe zimapangidwa zimasinthidwa kukhala zinthu zatsopano, Rob Opsomer, wogwira ntchito kukampani yofufuza ya Chingerezi Ellen MacArthur Foundation, akuvomereza. Iye anati: “Pa sekondi iliyonse, nsalu zodzaza ndi nsalu zimapita kumalo otayirako zinyalala.

Mu 2016, Inditex idatulutsa zovala za 1,4 miliyoni. Kuthamanga kumeneku kwathandiza kampani kukulitsa mtengo wake wamsika pafupifupi kasanu pazaka khumi zapitazi. Koma tsopano kukula kwa msika kwacheperachepera: zaka zikwizikwi, omwe amayesa zotsatira za "mafashoni ofulumira" pa chilengedwe, amakonda kulipira zochitika ndi malingaliro, osati zinthu. Zopeza za Inditex ndi H&M zakhala zikuchepa poyerekeza ndi zomwe akatswiri amayembekeza m'zaka zaposachedwa, ndipo magawo amsika amakampani adatsika pafupifupi gawo limodzi mwa magawo atatu mu 2018. "Mchitidwe wawo wamabizinesi sikungotaya ziro," akutero Edwin Ke, CEO wa Hong Kong Light. Industry Research Institute. "Koma tonse tili ndi zinthu zokwanira."

Zomwe zimatengera kugwiritsa ntchito moyenera zimatengera momwe zilili: makampani omwe amasinthira kupanga zopanda zinyalala pakanthawi atha kupeza mwayi wopikisana. Pofuna kuchepetsa zinyalala, ogulitsa amaika zotengera zapadera m'masitolo ambiri momwe makasitomala amatha kusiya zinthu zomwe zimatumizidwa kuti zibwezeretsedwe.

Katswiri wazamalonda wa Accenture Jill Standish akukhulupirira kuti makampani omwe amapanga zovala zokhazikika amatha kukopa makasitomala ambiri. "Chikwama chopangidwa ndi masamba a mphesa kapena chovala chopangidwa ndi peel lalanje sichikhalanso zinthu, pali nkhani yosangalatsa kumbuyo kwawo," akutero.

H&M ikufuna kupanga zinthu zonse kuchokera kuzinthu zobwezerezedwanso komanso zokhazikika pofika 2030 (tsopano gawo la zinthu zotere ndi 35%). Kuyambira 2015, kampaniyo yakhala ikuthandizira mpikisano woyambira omwe matekinoloje awo amathandizira kuchepetsa zotsatira zoyipa zamakampani opanga mafashoni pachilengedwe. Opikisana amapikisana kuti alandire thandizo la € 1 miliyoni ($ 1,2 miliyoni). Mmodzi mwa opambana chaka chatha ndi Smart Stitch, yomwe idapanga ulusi womwe umasungunuka kutentha kwambiri. Ukadaulo uwu uthandizira kukhathamiritsa kubwezerezedwanso kwa zinthu, kuwongolera njira yochotsa mabatani ndi zipper pazovala. Startup Crop-A-Porter yaphunzira kupanga ulusi kuchokera ku zinyalala kuchokera m'minda ya fulakisi, nthochi ndi chinanazi. Wopikisana wina adapanga ukadaulo wolekanitsa ulusi wazinthu zosiyanasiyana pokonza nsalu zosakanikirana, pomwe zoyambira zina zimapanga zovala kuchokera ku bowa ndi algae.

Mu 2017, Inditex idayamba kukonzanso zovala zakale kukhala zidutswa zomwe zimatchedwa mbiri yakale. Chotsatira cha zoyesayesa zonse za kampani pakupanga ntchito yodalirika (zinthu zopangidwa kuchokera ku thonje la organic, kugwiritsa ntchito ribbed ndi zinthu zina zachilengedwe) zinali mzere wa zovala za Join Life. Mu 2017, 50% zinthu zambiri zidatuluka pansi pa mtundu uwu, koma pazogulitsa zonse za Inditex, zovala zotere sizipanga zoposa 10%. Kuti awonjezere kupanga nsalu zokhazikika, kampaniyo imathandizira kafukufuku ku Massachusetts Institute of Technology ndi mayunivesite angapo aku Spain.

Imodzi mwa matekinoloje omwe ofufuza akugwira nawo ntchito ndi kupanga zovala kuchokera kuzinthu zopangidwa ndi matabwa pogwiritsa ntchito kusindikiza kwa 3D. Asayansi ena akuphunzira kulekanitsa ulusi wa thonje ndi ulusi wa poliyesitala pokonza nsalu zosakanizika.

"Tikuyesera kupeza zida zobiriwira," akutero a Garcia Ibáñez waku Germany, yemwe amayang'anira zobwezeretsanso ku Inditex. Malinga ndi iye, ma jeans opangidwa kuchokera ku zinthu zobwezerezedwanso tsopano ali ndi thonje la 15% lokhalo - ulusi wakale watha ndipo uyenera kusakanikirana ndi zatsopano.

Inditex ndi H&M akuti makampani amalipira ndalama zowonjezera zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito pogwiritsa ntchito nsalu zobwezerezedwanso komanso zobwezeretsedwa. Lowani nawo Moyo zinthu zimatengera mtengo wofanana ndi zovala zina m'masitolo a Zara: T-shirts amagulitsidwa zosakwana $ 10, pomwe mathalauza nthawi zambiri samawononga $40. H & M imakambanso za cholinga chake chosunga mitengo yotsika ya zovala zopangidwa kuchokera ku zipangizo zokhazikika, kampaniyo ikuyembekeza kuti ndi kukula kwa kupanga, mtengo wa zinthu zoterezi udzakhala wotsika. "M'malo mokakamiza makasitomala kulipira mtengo, timangowona ngati ndalama zanthawi yayitali," akutero Anna Gedda, yemwe amayang'anira ntchito yokhazikika ku H&M. "Tikukhulupirira kuti mafashoni obiriwira atha kukhala otsika mtengo kwa kasitomala aliyense."