Ochepa aife tinamvapo za chomera cha Paraguay holly. Mwina chifukwa chimamera ku South America, ku Argentina ndi Paraguay. Koma ndi chomera chopanda ulemu komanso chopanda tanthauzo chomwe chimapatsa anthu okwatirana - kapena yerbu mate, chakumwa choperekedwa kwa Amwenye ndi mulungu wamaso a buluu Paya Sharume. Mate kwa zaka mazana ambiri anathandiza poyamba Amwenye okhala m'mikhalidwe yovuta ya selva, ndiyeno abusa-gauchos. Tsopano okhala m'mizinda ikuluikulu, omwe moyo wawo umafanana ndi gologolo mu gudumu, akugwiritsa ntchito kwambiri zinthu zake zapadera. Zimalimbikitsa ndi kutenthetsa, zimachepetsa ndi kudyetsa, ndipo miyambo yakumwa imafanana ndi mwambo weniweni - wodabwitsa komanso wokongola, monga South America palokha.
Mate amaonedwa kuti ndi chakumwa chakale kwambiri padziko lapansi: kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma XNUMX BC, Amwenye aku South America ankachilemekeza ngati mphatso yochokera kwa milungu. Pali nthano ya Amwenye aku Paraguay yokhudza mphasa. Mwanjira ina, mulungu wa maso a buluu Paya Sharume anaganiza zotsika kuchokera ku Mountain World kupita ku Earth kuti awone momwe anthu amakhalira. Iye ndi angapo a gulu lake anayenda kwa nthawi yaitali kupyola mu selva, opanda chakudya ndi madzi, mpaka, potsiriza, iwo anawona kanyumba kayekha. M’menemo munali nkhalamba yokhala ndi mwana wamkazi wokongola modabwitsa. Mkuluyo analonjera alendowo mwachisomo, napereka nkhuku yake yokhayo kuti idye ndipo anawasiya kuti agone. M'mawa kutacha, Paya Sharume anafunsa kuti n'chifukwa chiyani amakhala mobisa? Kupatula apo, msungwana wokongola kwambiri amafunikira mkwati wolemera. Pomwe mkulu uja adayankha kuti kukongola kwa mwana wake wamkazi ndi kwa milungu. Podabwa, Paya Sharume adaganiza zothokoza omwe adalandira alendowo: adaphunzitsa nkhalambayo zaulimi, adapereka chidziwitso cha machiritso kwa iye, ndipo adasandutsa mwana wake wamkazi wokongola kukhala chomera chomwe chingathandize anthu osati ndi kukongola kwake, koma ndi ubwino wake - kukhala. holly waku Paraguay.
M'zaka za zana la XNUMX, kulamuliridwa ku Europe ku kontinentiyi kudayamba, ndipo amonke achiJesuit aku Spain adaphunzira za mphasa. Zinali kuchokera kwa iwo kuti chakumwacho chinatenga dzina lake lakale "mnzako", koma mawuwa amatanthauza dzungu zouma - mati, zomwe "tiyi ya Paraguay" imaledzera. Amwenye a Guarani nawonso adachitcha "yerba", kutanthauza "udzu".
Ajezuiti ankaona kuti mwambo wa kumwa mnzawo m’bwalo ndi mwambo waudyerekezi, ndipo chakumwacho chinali ngati mankhwala opangira kulodza ndi kuwononga, motero chikhalidwe cha kumwa kwa mwamuna kapena mkazi chinathetsedwa mwankhanza. Choncho, Padre Diego de Torres adanena kuti amwenye amamwa anzawo kuti aphatikize mgwirizano wawo ndi mdierekezi.
Komabe, mwanjira ina, mnzake - ngati chidwi - adayamba kulowa mu Europe pansi pa dzina la "Jesuit tiyi".
В XIX zaka zingapo, pambuyo pa zisinthiko zingapo zaufulu ku South America, mphasa idakumbukiridwanso: monga chizindikiro cha kudziwika kwa dziko, idanyadira malo patebulo osati anthu wamba okha, komanso olemekezeka atsopano a Argentina ndi Paraguay. Panali fashoni ya salon yomwa mowa. Choncho, mothandizidwa ndi kavalo wokhala ndi chivindikiro chotsekedwa, mtsikanayo akhoza kusonyeza njonda yolimbikira kwambiri kuti sanali wabwino kwa iye. Wokondedwa wokondedwa ndi uchi ankatanthauza ubwenzi, zowawa - mphwayi, wokwatirana ndi molasses analankhula za chikhumbo cha okonda.
Kwa gauchos wamba, abusa a ku South America selva, mwamuna kapena mkazi wakhala zambiri kuposa chakumwa. Anatha kuthetsa ludzu lake pa kutentha kwa masana, kutentha usiku, kudyetsa ndi mphamvu kwa ulendo watsopano wautali wa ng'ombe. Mwachizoloŵezi, ma gauchos ankamwa mowa wowawa, wophikidwa mwamphamvu - chizindikiro cha mwamuna weniweni, laconic komanso wozolowera moyo wosamukasamuka. Monga ofufuza ena a miyambo ya ku South America anenera, ndi bwino kuti gaucho adzuke maola awiri asanakwane kuposa momwe amayembekezera kuti amwe pang'onopang'ono.
Pali miyambo yambiri yakumwa, yomwe yonse ndi yachigawo.
Kwa Argentina, omwe amapereka chakumwa chachikulu lero, kumwa kwa amayi ndizochitika zapabanja, kokha kwa gulu lochepa la anthu.
Ndipo ngati munaitanidwa ku Argentina kaamba ka wokwatirana naye madzulo, tsimikizirani kuti ndinu wodalirika ndi kuwonedwa monga wokondedwa. Ndi chizolowezi kuchita nthabwala patebulo, kugawana nkhani, ndipo mnzanu amasewera gawo logwirizanitsa, monga mtsuko wa dzungu umadutsa. Mwini nyumbayo amamwa moŵa waubwenzi ndipo choyamba amaupereka kwa munthu wolemekezeka kwambiri m’banjamo.
Komabe, ku Paraguay, nkhani yosiyana kotheratu imalumikizidwa ndi kumwa koyamba kwa mnzanu: yemwe amamupanga amatengedwa ngati chitsiru. Boonse aabo ibali mumbunga yamatepita bakamukana, pele ooyo wakaba acilongwe ciyumu akaambo kakuyandaula majwi aakuti: “Sindili musyoonto, pele ooyo uumusubula.”
Anthu a ku Brazil amamwa mowa mumtsuko waukulu, ndipo amene amathira tiyi kwa omvera amatchedwa "cebador" - "stoker". Wowotchera moto amaonetsetsa kuti mu uvuni mumakhala nkhuni ndi malasha, ndipo "cebador" ali ndi udindo wowonetsetsa kuti alendo amamwa mowa nthawi zonse.
Pokhapokha mu 30s XX zana pa mphasa kachiwiri anafotokoza osati mu dziko lakwawo. Asayansi a ku Ulaya anali ndi chidwi ndi mfundo yakuti ma gaucho a ku Argentina pa nthawi yayitali yoyendetsa ng'ombe amatha kukhala tsiku limodzi mu chishalo - popanda kupuma, pansi pa dzuwa lotentha, pogwiritsa ntchito kulowetsedwa kwa holly ya ku Paraguay. Pakafukufuku wopangidwa ndi Pasteur Institute ku Paris, zidapezeka kuti zopangira za chomera chosawoneka bwino za selva zili ndi pafupifupi zakudya zonse ndi mavitamini omwe munthu amafunikira tsiku lililonse! Masamba a holly ku Paraguay ali ndi mavitamini A, B, mavitamini C, E, P, potaziyamu, manganese, sodium, iron ndi pafupifupi 196 zinthu zina zogwira ntchito! Ndi "chodyera" ichi chomwe chimapangitsa mnzanu kukhala chida chofunikira kwambiri polimbana ndi kutopa kosatha, kukhumudwa, ndi neurosis: imalimbikitsa ndikuchotsa nkhawa nthawi yomweyo. Mate ndi ofunikira kwa anthu omwe ali ndi vuto la kupanikizika: kumawonjezera kuthamanga kwapansi, ndikuchepetsa kuthamanga kwambiri. Ndiyeno, mnzanu ndi chakumwa chokoma kwambiri chokhala ndi sweetish komanso nthawi yomweyo zolemba tart.
Njira yoyenera kuphika mnzanu ndi iti? Pachikhalidwe, amaphikidwa m'chotengera cha mphonda zouma koma kwa inumonga momwe Amwenye aku South America amachitcha. Ku Russia, dzina lakuti "kalabas" kapena "calabash" (kuchokera ku Spanish "dzungu") lazika mizu. Ndi dzungu, lokhala ndi porous, lomwe limapangitsa mphasa kukhala wokoma komanso wodziwika bwino.
Koma asanakwatirane choyamba, calabash iyenera kutsitsimutsidwa: chifukwa cha izi, nthiti zimatsanuliridwa mmenemo (pafupifupi theka la calabash limadzazidwa ndi kusakaniza kowuma), kuthiridwa ndi madzi ndikusiyidwa kwa masiku awiri kapena atatu. Izi zimachitidwa kuti ma tannins omwe ali pamphasa "agwire" pozungulira pamphuno ndikuchotsa fungo lowonjezera. Pambuyo pa nthawiyi, dzungu limatsukidwa ndikuuma. Nthawi zambiri, kusamala koyenera ndikofunikira: pambuyo pa matepita aliwonse, ayenera kutsukidwa bwino ndikuwumitsa.
Chinthu china chofunikira pa matepita oyenera ndi bombilla - chubu-strainer yomwe chakumwa chimaphwanyidwa pang'onopang'ono. Mwachizoloŵezi, amapangidwa ndi siliva, yomwe ndi mankhwala ophera tizilombo toyambitsa matenda, ndipo chifukwa cha chikhalidwe cha ku South America chakumwa mnzako kuchokera ku chotengera chimodzi chozungulira, izi ndizofunikira. Ndodo imamizidwa m'chotengera ndi chakumwa, imatembenukira kwa wakumwa. Zimatengedwa kuti ndizosavomerezeka pambuyo pake kusuntha bomba ndi zina zambiri kuti zitulutse.
Ndipo, ndithudi, wina sanganene za miyala - woyandikana naye wapadera wokhala ndi spout yopapatiza momwe madzi amatenthedwa kwa mnzanu. Madzi ayenera kubweretsedwa kwa chithupsa, kenako amasiyidwa kuti azizizira mpaka madigiri 70-80.
Zoonadi, m’dziko lamakonoli, n’kosowa kwambiri kupeza maola oti munthu amwe momasuka, koma mwamuna kapena mkazi wake akhoza kuphikidwanso m’makina osindikizira a Chifalansa. "Zest" idzatha, koma izi sizidzakhudza ubwino wa mankhwala.
Mate, tiyi wa ma Incas ndi ma Jesuit, ndi malo apadera achilengedwe omwe amapatsa anthu mtundu wa Paraguay holly, chomera chopanda ulemu chomwe chimamera mu selva yaku Argentina, yothamangitsidwa ndi dzuwa. Kumwa kwa ma gauchos olimba mtima komanso ma senorita okongola aku Argentina atenga malo ake mu chikhalidwe cha metropolis.
Zoonadi, mkati mwa moyo wamakono, pamene chirichonse chiri chovuta ndipo sichidziwika bwino kuti ndi chifukwa chiyani akufulumira, palibe nthawi ndi mwayi wakumwa kwa amayi enieni. Komabe, munthu amene amayamikira calabash ndi bombilla mnzake sangathe kumwa madzi opangidwa ndi makina osindikizira a ku France. Snobbery? Mwina. Koma ndi zabwino bwanji, kumenya mnzako kuphulitsa bomba, yerekezani kuti ndinu gaucho wolimba mtima, mukuyang'ana mu selva yowawa.
Zolemba: Lilia Ostapenko