Mate - tiyi wa Incas

Ochepa aife tinamvapo za chomera cha Paraguay holly. Mwina chifukwa chimamera ku South America kokha, m'madera a Argentina ndi Paraguay. Koma ndi chomera chopanda ulemu komanso chopanda tanthauzo chomwe chimapatsa anthu okwatirana - kapena yerbu mate - chakumwa choperekedwa kwa Amwenye ndi mulungu wamaso abuluu Paya Sharume. Mate kwa zaka mazana ambiri anathandiza poyamba Amwenye okhala m'mikhalidwe yovuta ya selva, ndiyeno abusa-gauchos. Tsopano okhala m'mizinda ikuluikulu akugwiritsa ntchito kwambiri zinthu zake zapadera, zomwe moyo wawo umafanana ndi gologolo akuthamanga pa gudumu. Wokwatirana amalimbitsa ndi kutentha, amatsitsimula ndi kudyetsa, ndipo miyambo yakumwa imafanana ndi mwambo weniweni - wodabwitsa komanso wokongola, monga South America mwiniwake.

Mate amaonedwa kuti ndi chakumwa chakale kwambiri padziko lapansi: kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma XNUMX BC, Amwenye aku South America ankachilemekeza ngati mphatso yochokera kwa milungu. Pali nthano ya Amwenye aku Paraguay ponena za mphasa: mwanjira ina mulungu wamaso a buluu Paya Sharume adaganiza zotsika kuchokera ku Mountain World kupita ku Earth kuti awone momwe anthu amakhalira. Iye ndi angapo a gulu lake anayenda kwa nthawi yaitali kupyola mu selva, opanda chakudya ndi madzi, mpaka, potsiriza, iwo anawona kanyumba kayekha. Munali munthu wachikulire ndi mwana wake wamkazi wokongola modabwitsa. Mkuluyo anapereka moni kwa alendowo mwachisomo, anagawira nkhuku yake yokhayo kuti adye chakudya chamadzulo ndipo anakonzera malo ogona. M'mawa kutacha, Paya Sharume adamufunsa mkuluyo chifukwa chomwe amakhala mobisala. Kupatula apo, msungwana wokongola kwambiri amafunikira mkwati wolemera. Pomwe mkulu uja adayankha kuti kukongola kwa mwana wake wamkazi ndi kwa milungu. Podabwa, Paya Sharume adaganiza zothokoza omwe adalandira alendowo: adaphunzitsa munthu wokalambayo kulima, adamupatsa chidziwitso cha machiritso, ndipo adasandutsa mwana wake wamkazi wokongola kukhala chomera chomwe chingathandize anthu - osati ndi kukongola kwake, koma ndi zothandiza. katundu.

M'zaka za zana la XNUMX, kulamuliridwa ku Europe ku kontinentiyi kudayamba, ndipo amonke achiJesuit aku Spain adaphunzira za mphasa. Zinali kuchokera kwa iwo kuti chakumwacho chinatenga dzina lake lakale "mnzako", koma mawuwa amatanthauza dzungu zouma - mati, zomwe "tiyi ya Paraguay" imaledzera. Amwenye a Guarani nawonso adachitcha "yerba", kutanthauza "udzu".

Ajezuiti ankaona kuti mwambo wa kumwa mnzawo m’bwalo ndi mwambo waudyerekezi, ndipo chakumwacho chinkaonedwa ngati mankhwala opangira kulodza ndi kuwononga, choncho chikhalidwe cha kumwa mowa mwauchidakwa chinathetsedwa mwankhanza. Choncho, Padre Diego de Torres adanena kuti amwenye amamwa anzawo kuti aphatikize mgwirizano wawo ndi mdierekezi.

Komabe, mwanjira ina, mnzake, monga chidwi, adayamba kulowa mu Europe kale pansi pa dzina la "Jesuit tea".

Amayi adakumbukiridwanso mkati XIX zaka mazana angapo pambuyo pa zisinthiko zaufulu ku South America: monga chizindikiro cha kudziwika kwa dziko, adatenga malo olemekezeka patebulo osati anthu wamba okha, komanso olamulira atsopano a Argentina ndi Paraguay. Mafashoni a salon akumwa mowa adabadwa: kukoma kwa chakumwa mu kabala ndi chivindikiro chotsekedwa kumatanthauza malingaliro a mtsikana kwa njonda. Wokondedwa wokhala ndi uchi ankatanthauza ubwenzi, wokwatiwa wowawa anatanthauza kusayanjanitsika, wokwatiwa ndi molasi analankhula za chikhumbo cha okonda.

Kwa ma gaucho ndi abusa wamba a ku South America selva, mwamuna kapena mkazi wakhala woposa chakumwa chabe. Anatha kuthetsa ludzu lake pa kutentha kwa masana, kutentha usiku, kudyetsa ndi mphamvu kwa ulendo watsopano wautali wa ng'ombe. Mwachizoloŵezi, ma gauchos ankamwa mowa wowawa, wophikidwa mwamphamvu - chizindikiro cha mwamuna weniweni, laconic komanso wozolowera moyo wosamukasamuka. Monga ananenera ofufuza ena a miyambo ya ku South America, ndi bwino kuti gaucho azidzuka maola awiri asanayembekezere, ngati angomwa pang'onopang'ono.

Pali miyambo yambiri yakumwa, yomwe yonse ndi yachigawo.

Kwa Argentina, omwe amagulitsa zakumwa masiku ano, matepita ndizochitika zabanja zomwe zimangopangidwira anthu ochepa.

Ndipo ngati munaitanidwa kukakhala ndi mnzanu wa madzulo ku Argentina, tsimikizirani kuti amakukhulupirirani ndi kukuonani monga wokondedwa. Ndi chizolowezi kuchita nthabwala patebulo, kugawana nkhani, mnzanu amasewera gawo logwirizanitsa, chifukwa mtsuko wa dzungu umadutsa. Mwini nyumbayo amamwa moŵa waubwenzi ndipo choyamba amaupereka kwa munthu wolemekezeka kwambiri m’banjamo.

Ku Paraguay, kumwa koyamba kwa mwamuna kapena mkazi ndi nkhani yosiyana kotheratu: amene amamwa poyamba amatengedwa kuti ndi wopusa. Aliyense amene ali pa chakumwa chamkwatibwi amakana zimenezi mwakhama, komabe, amene ali ndi “choikidwiratu” chotero nthaŵi zonse adzalavulira paphewa lake, nati: “Sindine chitsiru, koma womnyalanyaza.”

Komano, anthu a ku Brazil amapangira moŵa mumtsuko waukulu, ndipo amene amathira mnzakeyo amatchedwa "cebador", ndiko kuti, "stoker", ndi omvera. Stoker imatsimikizira kuti nthawi zonse pali nkhuni ndi malasha mu chitofu, ali ndi udindo wowonetsetsa kuti alendo amamwa nthawi zonse mu bombilla.

Pokhapokha mu 30s XX zana pa mphasa kachiwiri anafotokoza osati mu dziko lakwawo. Asayansi a ku Ulaya anali ndi chidwi ndi mfundo yakuti ma gaucho a ku Argentina pa nthawi yayitali yoweta ng'ombe amatha kukhala tsiku limodzi m'chishalo, popanda kupuma, pansi pa dzuwa lotentha, pogwiritsa ntchito kulowetsedwa kwa holly ya ku Paraguay. Pakafukufuku wopangidwa ndi Pasteur Institute ku Paris, zidapezeka kuti zopangira za chomera chosawoneka bwino za selva zili ndi pafupifupi zakudya zonse ndi mavitamini omwe munthu amafunikira tsiku lililonse! Masamba a holly ku Paraguay ali ndi mavitamini A, B, mavitamini C, E, P, potaziyamu, manganese, sodium, iron ndi pafupifupi 196 zinthu zina zogwira ntchito! Ndi "chodyera" ichi chomwe chimapangitsa mnzanu kukhala chida chofunikira kwambiri polimbana ndi kutopa kosatha, kukhumudwa, ndi neurosis: imalimbikitsa ndikuchotsa nkhawa nthawi yomweyo. Mate ndi ofunikira kwa anthu omwe ali ndi vuto la kupanikizika: kumawonjezera kuthamanga kwapansi, ndikuchepetsa kuthamanga kwambiri. Ndiyeno, mnzanu ndi chakumwa chokoma kwambiri chokhala ndi sweetish komanso nthawi yomweyo zolemba tart.

Njira yoyenera kuphika mnzanu ndi iti? Mwachikhalidwe, amaphikidwa mu chotengera cha mphonda zouma - Amwenye aku South Americamuyimbireni koma kwa inu. Ku Russia, dzina lakuti "kalabas" kapena "calabash" (kuchokera ku Spanish "dzungu") lazika mizu. Ndi dzungu, lokhala ndi porous, lomwe limapangitsa mphasa kukhala wokoma komanso wodziwika bwino.

Koma asanakwatirane choyamba, calabash iyenera kutsitsimutsidwa: chifukwa cha izi, nthiti zimatsanuliridwa mmenemo (pafupifupi theka la chowuma pa kabala), kuthiridwa ndi madzi ndikusiyidwa kwa masiku awiri kapena atatu. Izi zimachitidwa kuti ma tannins omwe ali pamphasa "agwire" pozungulira pamphuno ndikuchotsa fungo lowonjezera. Pambuyo pa nthawiyi, dzungu limatsukidwa ndikuuma. Nthawi zambiri, kusamala koyenera ndikofunikira: pambuyo pa matepita aliwonse, ayenera kutsukidwa bwino ndikuwumitsa.

Chinthu china chofunikira pa matepiya oyenera ndi bombilla - chubu cha strainer chomwe chakumwa chimaphwanyidwa pang'onopang'ono. Pachikhalidwe, amapangidwa ndi siliva, omwe amapha tizilombo. Popeza chikhalidwe cha ku South America chakumwa mnzanu kuchokera ku chotengera chimodzi mozungulira, izi ndizofunikira. Ndodo imamizidwa m'chotengera ndi chakumwa, imatembenukira kwa wakumwa. Kuchisuntha kapena kuchitulutsa ndikosavomerezeka.

Ndipo, ndithudi, munthu sangalephere kutchula phala - chotengera chapadera chokhala ndi spout yopapatiza momwe ndimatenthetsa madzi kwa wokondedwa. Madzi, komanso kukonzekera kwake koyenera, ndi zigawo zofunika za zakumwa zabwino. Madzi ayenera kubweretsedwa kwa chithupsa, kenako amasiyidwa kuti azizizira mpaka madigiri 70-80. Zoonadi, m'dziko lamakono, ndizosowa kwambiri kupeza wotchi ya munthu amene amamwa momasuka, koma mwamuna kapena mkazi akhoza kupangidwanso mu makina osindikizira a ku France. Zoonadi, "zest" yakumwa idzatha, koma izi sizidzakhudza ubwino wa mankhwalawa. Mate - tiyi wa ma Incas ndi ma Jesuit, malo odyera apadera omwe amapatsa anthu ku Paraguay holly - chomera chopanda ulemu chomwe chimamera ku Selva yaku Argentina yowotchedwa ndi dzuwa; chakumwa cha ma gaucho olimba mtima komanso ma senorita okongola aku Argentina amatha kupezeka kwambiri patebulo la wokhala mumzindawu. Zoonadi, mkati mwa moyo wamakono, pamene chirichonse chiri chovuta ndipo sichidziwika bwino kuti ndi chifukwa chiyani akufulumira, palibe nthawi ndi mwayi wakumwa kwa amayi enieni. Komabe, awo amene ayamikira calabash ndi bombilla mate sadzathanso kumwa mabwenzi okonzedwa mu makina osindikizira a ku France. Ndi mtundu wa mwano. Snobbery, mukuti. Mwina. Koma ndi bwino bwanji, kupyoza mnzanu kupyolera mu bomba, yerekezani kuti ndinu gaucho wolimba mtima, mukuyang'ana patali ndi selva yowawa. PS   

Siyani Mumakonda