Mu 1898, ku Zurich, ku Sihlstrasse 28, pafupi ndi Bahnhofstrasse wotchuka, malo odziwika bwino a nthawi yake adatsegula zitseko zake - malo odyera zamasamba. Kuphatikiza apo, sichinapereke zakumwa zoledzeretsa. "Vegetarierheim und Abstinnz Café" - "Pogona zamasamba ndi malo odyera a teetotalers" - idakhala, komabe, kwa zaka zingapo, kudutsa kumapeto kwa zaka za zana la 19 mpaka 20. Tsopano ikugonjetsa mitima ndi mimba ya odya zamasamba a m'zaka za zana la 21.
Zakudya zamasamba ku Europe zidangoyamba kumene kumafashoni, ndipo malo odyerawo sakanatha kupeza zofunika pamoyo - ndalama zake pafupifupi zinali ma franc 30 patsiku. Nzosadabwitsa: Zurich panthawiyo anali adakali kutali ndi malo azachuma, anthu okhalamo sanagwetse ndalama, ndipo kwa mabanja ambiri kunali kale kosangalatsa kupereka nyama patebulo kamodzi pa sabata, Lamlungu. Anthu okonda zamasamba m’maso mwa anthu wamba ankaoneka ngati “odya udzu” opusa.
Mbiri ya "cafe ya teetotalers" ikadakhala yopanda kanthu ngati pakadapanda pakati pa makasitomala ake mlendo wina wochokera ku Bavaria dzina lake Ambrosius Hiltl. Kale ali ndi zaka 20, iye, yemwe anali telala mwa ntchito yake, anadwala matenda a gout ndipo sanathe kugwira ntchito, chifukwa samatha kusuntha zala zake. Mmodzi mwa madotolo adaneneratu za imfa yake ngati Hitle sanasiye kudya nyama.
Mnyamatayo anatsatira uphungu wa dokotalayo ndipo anayamba kudya nthaŵi zonse m’malo odyera zamasamba. Pano, mu 1904, anakhala mtsogoleri. Ndipo chaka chotsatira, adatenganso gawo lina la thanzi ndi chitukuko - anakwatira wophika Martha Gnoipel. Onse pamodzi, banjali linagula malo odyerawo mu 1907, akudzitcha dzina lawo. Kuyambira pamenepo, mibadwo inayi ya banja la Hiltl yakhala ikukwaniritsa zosowa zamasamba za anthu okhala ku Zurich: malo odyera adadutsa pamzere wachimuna, kuchokera ku Ambroisus motsatizana kupita ku Leonhard, Heinz ndipo pomaliza Rolf, mwiniwake wa Hiltl.
Rolf Hiltl, yemwe adayamba kuyendetsa malo odyera mu 1998, atangotha zaka zana, posakhalitsa adayambitsa, pamodzi ndi abale a Fry, gulu lazakudya zamasamba la Tibits lolemba Hiltl ndi nthambi ku London, Zurich, Bern, Basel ndi Winterthur.
Malinga ndi bungwe la Swiss Vegetarian Society, 2-3 peresenti yokha ya anthu amatsatira moyo wosadya zamasamba. Koma, ndithudi, palibe amene angakane mbale yokonzedwa bwino yazamasamba.
“Odya masamba oyamba anali, kwakukulukulu, olota maloto amene amakhulupirira kuti kumwamba kungamangidwe padziko lapansi. Masiku ano, anthu akusintha n’kuyamba kudya zakudya zochokera ku zomera, n’kumasamalira thanzi lawo. Pamene manyuzipepala anali odzaza ndi nkhani zokhudza matenda amisala a ng’ombe zaka zingapo zapitazo, panali mizera yopita ku lesitilanti yathu,” akukumbukira motero Rolf Hiltl.
Ngakhale kuti malo odyerawa agwira ntchito m'zaka zonse za m'ma 20, zakudya zamasamba zonse zakhala zikukhala mumthunzi. Chiyambi chake chinafika m’zaka za m’ma 1970, pamene maganizo oteteza nyama ndi chilengedwe anakula kwambiri. Achinyamata ambiri anali ndi chikhumbo chosonyeza chikondi chawo kwa abale awo aang’ono mwa zochita mwa kukana kuwadya.
Adachita nawo chidwi ndi zikhalidwe ndi zakudya zachilendo: mwachitsanzo, Indian ndi Chinese, zomwe zimachokera ku zakudya zamasamba. Sizongodabwitsa kuti mndandanda wa Hiltl lero uli ndi zakudya zambiri zomwe zimapangidwa motsatira maphikidwe ochokera ku Asia, Malaysian, ndi Indian cuisine. Vegetable Paella, Arabic Artichokes, Msuzi Wamaluwa ndi zakudya zina zabwino.
Chakudya cham'mawa chimaperekedwa kuyambira 6am mpaka 10.30 am, alendo amapatsidwa zophikira zophikira, masamba opepuka a masamba ndi saladi wa zipatso (kuchokera ku 3.50 franc pa 100 magalamu), komanso timadziti tachilengedwe. Malo odyera amatsegulidwa mpaka pakati pausiku. Pambuyo pa chakudya chamadzulo, zokometsera zambiri zimatchuka kwambiri. Mutha kugulanso mabuku ophika pomwe ophika a Hilt amagawana zinsinsi zawo ndikuphunzira kuphika nokha.
“Chimene ndimakonda kwambiri pa ntchito imeneyi n’chakuti ndimatha kudabwa ndi kusangalatsa makasitomala anga popanda kuvulaza nyama imodzi,” akutero Rolf Hiltl. “Kuyambira m’chaka cha 1898, takhala tikugwiritsa ntchito zipangizo zamakono zoposa 40 miliyoni.
Rolf amakhulupirira kuti Ambrosius Hiltl angasangalale kuona ana ake pa tsiku la chikumbutso cha 111, komanso adadabwa. Idakonzedwanso mu 2006, malo odyerawa tsopano akutumikira anthu 1500 patsiku, komanso malo osambira (osakhalanso a teetotalers), disco ndi maphunziro aukadaulo ophikira. Pakati pa alendo nthawi ndi nthawi palinso anthu otchuka: woimba wotchuka Paul McCartney kapena mkulu wa ku Switzerland Mark Foster adayamikira zakudya zamasamba.
Zurich Hiltl adalowa mu Guinness Book of Records ngati malo odyera oyamba amasamba ku Europe. Ndipo pa malo ochezera a pa Intaneti a Facebook, omwe ndi otchuka ku Switzerland, mafani a 1679 amalembedwa patsamba la malo odyera a Hitl.