Ngati shea, jojoba, avocado ndi soya ndi maloto a cosmetologists ndi mafani achilengedwe a kukongola ndi thanzi, m'pofunika kudutsa sopo musanafike pazinthu izi zomwe zimayamikiridwa chifukwa cha ubwino wawo. Njira yopangira sopo imatchedwa saponification. Zinthu zomwe zimachokera ku izo ndizosaponifiables.

Mawuwa amachokera ku Chilatini: mwachinsinsi, sapo kutanthauza sopo ndi abilis kuti athe. Chifukwa chake ndi chinthu chomwe sichingasinthe kukhala sopo. Kuti timvetsetse unsaponification, munthu ayenera kumvetsetsa kale kuti saponification ndi chiyani, ndiko kuti, mbiri ya kupanga sopo.

Mpaka zaka za m'ma 19, tinatsuka, kuchotsedwa ndi kutayika (tsitsi mwachitsanzo) ndi sopo wopangidwa ndi mafuta a nyama (nthawi zambiri nkhumba) zomwe timachita ndi potashi (tsinde lomwe likupezeka paphulusa). Kenaka, timagwiritsa ntchito mafuta a masamba omwe amachitidwa ndi soda (zochokera m'madzi a m'nyanja).

Kuti apindule bwino, makampani otentha a saponification asintha pang'onopang'ono saponification ozizira, amisiri koma omwe akubwereranso chifukwa amasunga makhalidwe a mafuta (owonongeka ndi kutentha).

Mwachidule:

• The unsaponifiable nkhani ndi gawo lotsalira (losasungunuka m'madzi koma losungunuka mu zosungunulira za organic) zomwe zimapezeka pambuyo pa saponification;
• Mu equation imodzi: mafuta kapena zinthu zamafuta + koloko = sopo + glycerin + kagawo kakang'ono kosaponifiable kopanda glyceridic;
• Gawo losaponifiable lamafuta amasamba limagwiritsidwa ntchito mu cosmetology chifukwa chachilengedwe chake.

Kuti timvetse chidwi cha unsaponifiables, tiyenera kudutsa mu bokosi: ukalamba ndi khungu oxidation. Thupi limapanga ma free radicals omwe ntchito yake ndi kuyeretsa khungu. Amadzichotsera okha. Koma zikachulukana (kuipitsa, fodya, UV, etc.), amaukira maselo ndi zomwe zili (elastin, collagen). Izi zimatchedwa "oxidative stress" yomwe imayambitsa kukalamba kwa khungu. Ndipo apa ndi pamene osaponifiable amasonyeza ubwino wawo.

Mndandandawu ndi wautali. Monga tanenera, ndi mafuta a masamba omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito. Chida chilichonse kapena "chogwira ntchito" chili ndi zinthu zake. Iwo ndi chuma pakhungu.

• Polyphenols ali ndi katundu wofunikira kwambiri wa antioxidant (pakati pawo, tannins ndi antibacterial, flavonoids ndi anti-yotupa ndi lignans ndi seboregulators);
• Ma phytosterols (cholesterol yamasamba) amachiritsa, kukonza komanso ali ndi anti-yotupa. Iwo amathandizira "chotchinga" ntchito ya khungu ndi microcirculation. Amachepetsa ukalamba wa khungu;
• Carotenoids amapereka "mawonekedwe abwino." Ndiwo omwe amapaka mafuta. Ndi ma antioxidants amphamvu achilengedwe omwe amatsitsimutsanso ndikukonzanso khungu. Amathandizira kaphatikizidwe ka collagen ndi photoprotectors.

Mndandandawu ulinso ndi mavitamini ambiri:

• Mavitamini a B amateteza ndi kubwezeretsa maselo;
• Vitamini C imathandizira machiritso;
• Vitamini D imayendetsa ndikuthandizira kuyamwa kwa calcium. Imasunga ma hydration pakhungu;
• Vitamini E imateteza ku ukalamba chifukwa cha antioxidant ndi anti-toxic action;
• Vitamini K amachepetsa kufiira.

Pa mndandanda wawonjezedwa:

• Ma enzyme: amateteza ku ukalamba;
• Resinous esters: chitetezo ndi machiritso;
• Squalene: antioxidants.

Mafuta ambiri ndi mafuta ena amakhala ndi 2% kapena zinthu zosavomerezeka. Koma zina zili ndi zambiri:

• Mafuta a shea ali ndi 15%. Shea kapena “mtengo wa batala” kapena “golide wa akazi” amamera ku West Africa. Zimapanga mtedza womwe ma amondi osindikizidwa amapereka batala. Batalawa amagwiritsidwa ntchito kupatsa madzi ndi kufewetsa khungu;
• Sera ndi mafuta a Jojoba ali ndi 50%. Jojoba imachokera kumwera kwa United States ndi kumpoto kwa Mexico, koma minda tsopano ikupezeka m'mayiko ambiri. Ndi mbewu zake (zotchedwa nyemba kapena amondi) zomwe zili ndi mafuta amatsenga;
• Mafuta a avocado ndi soya amadziwika mu mankhwala chifukwa cha mankhwala odana ndi nyamakazi: mankhwala amagwiritsidwa ntchito mu rheumatology (osteoarthritis ya bondo ndi chiuno) ndi stomatology koma SMR yawo (phindu lenileni) imatengedwa kuti ndi yosakwanira kapena yoopsa. Awa ndi ma ISA: osaponifiables a soya ndi mapeyala omwe ali ndi zotulukapo zosayenera koma opanda zoopsa pakugwiritsa ntchito zodzikongoletsera.
• Tiyenera kuzindikira kuti sopo wa surgras ndi sopo momwe zinthu zopanda unsaponifiable zakhazikitsidwa zomwe zasungunuka muzitsulo za organic.