“Akazi achikulire ali m’fashoni”

Kwa nthawi yonse ya ntchito yake mu bizinesi yachitsanzo, Carmen moyenerera amalembedwa mu Guinness Book of Records. Mipikisano ya Carmen imatsutsidwa bwino ndi Daphne Self: ali kale ndi zaka 86, zomwe zimamupatsa ufulu woti azionedwa ngati chitsanzo chakale kwambiri padziko lapansi. Anangoyamba kumene kutsatsa malonda a Vans sneakers ku Sweden store & Other Stories. Pazithunzizi, Daphne mopanda mantha amajambula pafupi ndi Flo Dron wazaka 22. Ndizosavuta kutanthauzira izi ngati zotsatsa zowonekera: mibadwo yosiyana - agogo aakazi ndi zidzukulu - ali ogwirizana pakukonda kwawo nsapato za Vans. Koma zikuwoneka kuti pali chinthu china kumbuyo kwa izi: chizindikiro cha njira yatsopano - madona achikulire akubwera mu mafashoni.

Pamaso pathu, mawonekedwe owoneka bwino a kukongola akutha msanga: wachichepere, wowonda wa blonde wokhala ndi miyeso ya 90-60-90. M'malo mwake, matupi atsopano "osapangidwe" amalowa m'malo a mafashoni: onenepa kwambiri, okalamba, olumala, zitsanzo za transgender. Ndipo potengera izi, m'miyezi yaposachedwa, okongola komanso okongola azaka zakale adawoneka motsatizana m'nkhani zamafashoni.

Werengani zambiri:

• "Lingaliro lathu la kukongola likusintha"

Woyimba nyimbo za rock Joni Mitchell akupezeka mu kampeni ya Saint Laurent's Spring/Summer 2015: wopanga Hedi Slimane adamupangira chovala chopeta, chokongoletsedwa ndi anthu chomwe chimagwirizana kwathunthu ndi kavalidwe kake kachinyamata. Komabe, nthawi yomweyo, Mitchell, yemwe amadziwika chifukwa cha mawu ake osasunthika, adalankhula za zomwe Slimane adapanga popanda kuvomerezedwa ndi "akazembe" amtunduwo: "Izi sizintchito zatsopano, koma ndizosangalatsa kuvala. ndakhala ndi gizmos zamtunduwu nthawi zosiyanasiyana za moyo wanga. " Ndipo posakhalitsa mndandanda wonse wa zithunzi za Mitchell muzovala zopanga komanso kuyankhulana mwatsatanetsatane ndi iye zidawonekera pachikuto cha magazini yapadera ya kasupe ya New York Magazine yoperekedwa ku mafashoni.

Momwemonso, mtundu wa Céline wasankha wolemba wotchuka waku America komanso mtolankhani, Joan Didion wazaka 80, ngati nkhope ya kampeni yake yatsopano yotsatsa. Chithunzi chake m'magalasi akuluakulu akuda chinazungulira atolankhani, koma ndemanga zake zinali zosakanikirana. Anthu ambiri osilira luso la zolembalemba la Didion sanasangalale ndi mawonekedwe a fano lawo potsatsa… Adley Freeman wa nyuzipepala ya The Guardian anakwiya: “Ndimakhumudwa pamene mtundu wa mafashoni umagwiritsa ntchito mbiri ya Didion ndi luso laukadaulo kugulitsa magalasi okwera mtengo kwambiri” (1) . Kuphatikiza apo, Joan Didion amadziwika moyo wake wonse ngati mkazi wokhala ndi mawonekedwe odziwika: ma turtlenecks ake akuda ndi zodzikongoletsera za avant-garde zadutsa kale m'gulu la zinthu zodziwika bwino - izi zimawonjezeranso "likulu lophiphiritsira" la kutsatsa kwa Céline. . Ndipo sitikulankhula za msirikali wakale wa "m'badwo wamafashoni" wazaka 94 Iris Burrell Apfel - atawonetsa zovala zake ku Metropolitan Museum of Art, nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale iliyonse imakondwera kuchititsa chiwonetserochi, chomwe tsopano. amayenda padziko lonse lapansi.

Koma, mwinamwake, zitsanzo zokwanira - n'zoonekeratu kuti mafashoni akutembenukira kwa amayi achikulire. Chifukwa chiyani? Poyambirira apa, ndithudi, zifukwa za chikhalidwe ndi zachuma: malinga ndi ziwerengero, chiwerengero cha anthu a "m'badwo wachitatu" padziko lapansi chikuwonjezeka, iwo amasungunulira, amayenda kwambiri, amakhala ndi moyo wokangalika. sindikufuna kuvala zovala zakuda zazikazi zachikale. Mabungwe akuluakulu, ndithudi, amakwaniritsa zofunikira za msika, osafuna kuphonya gawo ili lolonjeza komanso lopindulitsa la msika waukulu, ndipo mafashoni a okalamba tsopano akupeza malo molimba mtima pakati pa ogulitsa onse akuluakulu. Chinthu chinanso chofunikira ndi chakuti makasitomala ambiri olemera a nyumba zamtundu wa Haute couture ndi amayi achikulire ochokera kumayiko achiarabu, omwe amayamikiridwa kwambiri ndi ma couturiers motsutsana ndi kutsika kwakukulu kwa kufunikira kwa zovala zodula zodula (m'malo mwake, chifukwa cha malamulo awo, ambiri aute. nyumba za couture zimangoyandama). Potsirizira pake, ponena za ndale, pempho la zaka "lachitatu" limathandizidwa mokwanira ndi malingaliro a "kusiyana" (kusiyana) ndi kulolerana, chifukwa chomwe amayi achikulire samamvanso ngati "ochepa osaoneka", osachita manyazi kulengeza poyera. zofuna zawo ndi zomwe amakonda. Akazi okhwima tsopano akusangalala kwambiri ndi moyo kuposa kale. Sizongochitika mwangozi kuti pali mabuku ambiri onena za chikondi akakula masiku ano, monga "Pa Madzulo a Khrisimasi" lolemba Rosamund Pilcher ndi "Agogo Poppy" lolemba Noel Chatelet (2).

Panthawi ina, Roland Barthes, popenda zachipembedzo cha unyamata ndi thupi lochepa thupi, adanena modandaula kuti "tsankho la achinyamata" likulamulira m'mafashoni. Tsopano, zikuwoneka ngati ayezi wasweka: imvi ndizomwe zimachitika nyengoyi.

1. Kuti mudziwe zambiri, onani The Guardian

2. R. Pilcher “On Christmas Eve” (Mawu, 2002); N. Châtelet “Lady in blue. Agogo aakazi ndi duwa la poppy ”(Labyrinth, 2002).

Zolemba za Iris zonena za moyo wa Iris Apfel, m'malo owonetsera pa June 5